Ultra Tec Faceting

Ultra Tec Faceting - FAQ

-- Answers to users' frequently asked questions

Index - Sections

1. Digital Angle Dial (DAD)

2. Owners Manuals

3. Dops

4. Calibration & Repairs

5. Right and left handed machines

6. Updating your Ultra Tec V2

7. People at Ultra Tec

8. Accessories

9. Techniques and Materials

10. Second-Hand Machines

11. Buying a Machine

1. DIGITAL ANGLE DIAL

Q. Why should I buy the Digital version of the Ultra Tec. Is it really better than the older Analog Angle Dial machine?

A. The Digital Angle Dial is better in this way:

The Digital Angle Dial eliminates your possible setting error, providing a more consistent and accurate setting. The Digital Angle Dial --easily, comfortably and repeatably -- is set to a hundredth of a degree position (.01 degrees), (and, most newer gem diagrams specify angles to .01 degrees). Incidentally, that ease and assurance in setting the angle speeds up the faceting (which may be significant for some faceters). The older analog Angle Dial is set to a tenth of a degree (.1 degrees) --not quite as easily and comfortably—we are all familiar with vernier scales, and using the vernier scale depends on the skill of the user — and we are all familiar with going back to recheck the setting (often more than once).

So, what do we gain in using the Digital Angle Dial?

a. In setting the target angle--ease and comfort, and extra assurance that the angle has been set correctly.

b. In detecting arrival at the target angle—similarly—no doubt about it.

Now, if you are someone with a dislike of the new "digital" world (you’re not alone), Ultra Tec continues to offer the analog Angle Dial – in the V2R. We know that there will be people who prefer it—that’s not a "bad" decision. The Ultra Tec in its analog version was (and still is) a super machine.

Q. Can I install the DAD myself?

A. Yes, absolutely! If you would like to see the instructions on how to install the DAD, please click here.

Q. The DAD is digital--does it have to be programmed ?

A. No— It’s circuitry is pre-programmed to do its thing—give you fast, accurate, repeatable .01 degree settings. It needs to be calibrated, which is done at the factory before shipment. You just have to plug it in and use it.

If you get the DAD Kit to install--replacing the old Angle Dial—you get a Calibration Block, and instructions for doing it—a mechanical thing—not “programming”.

Q. Can the DAD be mounted on an older Ultra Tec Faceting Machine?

A. Yes! The DAD is retro-fittable to all V2 heads. You can see a picture of a 36-plus machine retro-fitted (by the owner) in the January 2009 Sometimes Bulletin

Q. The Digital Angle Dial sets to a .01 degree accuracy—is that degree of accuracy needed?

A. Let’s preface this by saying that faceting will always involve—ultimately—visual examination of he stone (certainly, many awards were presented for stones cut with 0.1 degree-setting analog Angle Dials). Having said that…

The hundredths positioning is meaningful in any design where there is a small difference between adjacent angles. The prime examples of these designs are the Barion cuts, where adjacent angles often differ by less than 1 degree. In such cases, an error of even .01 degree is very visible to the naked eye—as is the case on many other stones, not necessarily Barions, where small difference between adjacent angles are not uncommon (if you want to play with the geometry of this, we can send you the formulas).

In any event, faceting instructions are showing hundredths of a degree settings, and it is more comfortable to just make those settings than to dismiss them.

For another view on the accuracy of the DAD please click here.

Q. If I get the DAD, will I still use a Dial Indicator Attachment? And, what about the Stop Indicator, which is similar in being affected by the functions of the DAD?

A. You can leave both the Dial Indicator Attachment and the Stop Indicator in place – they will work – but you will find that their functions are redundant to the DAD – DAD does it all! DAD shows the approach and final arrival at the target angle, reading out all the way. It also has an optionally on buzzer that signals reaching the target angle.

Now, you may have previously purchased one or both of those accessories, and, if you wish, in consideration of that, we will allow a $100 trade-in allowance for your Dial Indicator Attachment against the list price of the DAD, and similarly, a $40 trade-in allowance for your Stop Indicator against the list price of the DAD. To take advantage of this, when you order, you need to tell us that’s what you want to do, and we will modify the sale price accordingly.

So that your machine is never “out of action,” you don’t need to make the return until after you’ve installed the DAD. Send us your Dial Indicator Attachment and/or your Stop Indicator with a note identifying them as “trade-in returns” - (trade-ins” need to be functional, and you will have 30 days to send them in, or we will adjust the original billing payment).

Q. Is the modification from Angle Dial to Digital Angle Dial as easy as taking the Angle Dial off and putting it back on?

A. installing the DAD is close to the same degree of difficulty as taking the analog Angle Dial off and putting it back on--which is to say, not very difficult.

Q. How is the power cord routed away from the mast to not interfere with the head movement?

A. We've been testing one on a machine at home for about a year - -we had the same concern--would the power cord be bothersome? It isn't -- when you're faceting you are not aware that the cord is there. The cord goes straight back from the Mast (that is, it continues on a path in line with the Mast track -- to the right -- and off the Baseplate-) - and can be plugged into a power strip there.

Q. What is the power source for the DAD?

A. It is a very light cord going back to a slim-body 5 V (250-500 milliamp) DC Adapter -- plug-in type to a standard wall socket.

2. OWNERS MANUALS

Q. I lost my V2 faceting machine owners manual. How can I get another copy?

A. We do sell hard copies of the owners manuals, just contact us to find out how. You can also download one by clicking here.

3. DOPS

Q. The current dops have an angular cut at the back. I know that's an alignment feature for the current Spindle-but, can I use those dops in my older machine?

A. Yes. They are a little bit shorter, but they will work OK.

4. CALIBRATIONS AND REPAIRS

Q. Do I need to have the Head calibrated periodically?

A. No. But, consider calibration if there's some problem that you see, or if you suspect some damage. In that event, contact us and we'll arrange for the work.

Q. If I do send the Head for calibration or repair, how much will Ultra Tec charge?

A.. For repairs and calibration, we charge at a rate of $75 per hour. If the work is reasonably free of complications, it can be done in about an hour and a half—and about 10% are done within that time, and have about a $100 charge. More commonly, something turns up, and then the additional labor, and perhaps some hardware, results in the more common $150 to $250 billing.

If there are major problems—“major problems” are those necessitating disassembly, part replacement (Bearings, for example), and reassembly--costs, on the average, rise an additional $200. We can almost always detect the presence of a “major problem” at the inspection stage, at which point we are only about $35 into it—at which point we notify you with an estimate, for you to say stop or go-ahead.

It is a good idea to call us before sending it in—and usually, as we discuss what you see as a problem, we can come up with a estimate. That way, you know, going in what it will probably be—and give us an OK for that amount.

That “pre-approval” speeds things up since we can move right into the repair. Most frequently, the faceter sends his credit card information, with some “do-not-exceed” amount, based on the phone estimate.

This information, and pricing, applies equally and separately for the Mast and the Base. Usually it is only the Mast that needs attention, but sometimes the Base as well. So, for example, if the Mast and the Base needed repair, and they were both in the “uncomplicated” category, the billing would be about $200.

Q. On my Base, I think that the Platen is not running evenly—that it needs calibration. What do I do?

A. It is rare, but not impossible, to have runout on the Platen--unless it is a matter of the Bearings having gone out (in which case there would be considerable noise from them)

It would be good if you could get some estimate of the runout. You may not have an indicator (unless you have a Dial Indicator Attachment on the Mast, in which case you do, and it would read out the error), but you can make an estimate by doing the following: set the Quill at about 45 degrees--not critical; using the Vertical Control Knob, as you rotate the Platen manually, gradually lower the Quill toward the Platen, approaching the Platen near its perimeter, and detecting the first contact between the Quill and the Platen. That would be the high point—record the reading on the Mast Scale. Then, rotate the Platen 180 degrees, so the Quill would now be hovering over the low point, and gradually lower the quill until contact is detected (you can move the quill back and forth horizontally--only about 1/8"--to help in that detection)--and record the reading at this new point. The difference between the two readings is the run-out.

If the error is significant, you will get a reading. If, however, the Platen remains within its specification, the error is so small it will be difficult to get a reading. Now, if you do not detect an error on the Platen itself, suspect the Laps -- it is not uncommon that new Laps have a vertical error of .002", or, there is the possibility that when setting the Lap onto the Platen there may be a bit of dirt on the Platen or on the underside of the Lap. (while Platen problems are rare, reports of Platen problems that actually trace back to Lap problems are not so rare).

If you finally decide it is a Platen problem, it would have to be sent to the factory for correction. If it is a post -1980's machine (approx. date), the repair and recalibration, assuming no unforeseen complications, is $160 - $250. If it is a pre-1980's machine, the costs at least double (it has to do with some details of the mounting configuration).

Q. If I do need a calibration or repair to the Head, do I need to send back the Base, too.

A. In general, the answer to that is No. It is fairly uncommon that there is a Base problem (and, of course, sending the Base is a bigger task than sending just the Mast). If you are close enough to bring the Base by, and you don't have the hassle of sending it, it is a good idea to do that so that we can do a final calibration "tweaking" of the Mast to its Base (the Mast, without its Base, is calibrated to the Test Stand -- which is very close to the Base alignment (not exact--but very close--and satisfactory for most serious faceters).

Q. If I want to send my Head to Ultra Tec for calibration or repair, how should I send it?

A. Put it into a corrugated box, and put some protective padding around it-even crinkled-up newspaper is OK (and often fun to read). US Mail is OK-or UPS, too, which is how we make most of our return deliveries.

5. RIGHT & LEFT-HANDED MACHINES

Q. I’m left handed. It seems that Ultra Tec faceting machines are right handed. Is that a problem for me?

A. The short answer is: No—it is not a problem.

The longer answer is ...

In its earlier days, Ultra Tec offered the buyer a choice of "left hand" or "right hand" machines. Even though it was for many years, I must say, those were improper names. They were not "left hand" and "right hand", but rather, correctly, the machines should not have been called “Mast-on-left” or “Mast-on-right”. The closest comparison I can think of is the location of the steering wheel in an automobile. In England the steering wheel is on the right; in the USA the steering wheel is on the left – they are not "left hand" or "right hand" autos -- and which ever side you were used to before, you get used to the new way. Similarly, with a faceting machine, you also get used to it either way (except that getting used to the faceting machine is much faster than getting used to the driving change).

Now, is it possible that one side is really “better” depending on whether you are right or left handed? You may have heard the arguments, as I have. There are people who make a good case for why a right-handed person should use a Mast-on-left machine, and there are other people who make an equally good case for why a right-handed person should use a Mast-on-right machine (with corresponding arguments for left handed people). There are persuasive arguments—on both sides of the matter. Experience has taught, however, regardless of the arguments, that a user quickly becomes accustomed to either side--it really doesn't matter.

When Ultra Tec decided to produce Mast-on-right machines, it was to reduce the complexity of our inventory, not just for the machine but for accessories as well. We chose Mast-on-right not because it is “better” (it’s not – neither side is “better”) but because that's what 90 percent of existing machines were (I think the imbalance between right and left came from the original “right-handed” and “left-handed” designations).

The main point is: If you've been used to a Mast-on-left faceting machine, you will quickly become accustomed to Ultra Tec's Mast-on-right. Which side the mast may be on is not a factor to consider when selecting a machine.

6. UPDATING YOUR ULTRA TEC V2

Looking back, we've had many upgrades-some of them apparent, and affecting the way the machine is used, and some less apparent, affecting the internal precision.

Q. Can my machine be upgraded?

A. Yes. Any Ultra Tec upgrade can be made to any Ultra Tec. We keep to our long-time pledge to never make machines "obsolete"-that is, we will not make an upgrade that cannot be retrofit to an existing machine. But, of course, an upgrade can be expensive, and it is up to you to evaluate and decide.

Q. My machine has the old draw-bar-chuck dop retention system. Should I get the current indexed-dop system ?

A. Yes - we think so. It has proven to be an excellent upgrade. It's in the "expensive" category, but It includes the indexed-dop Transfer Block and the short extension Tabling Adapter-both significant features in themselves.

Q. If I did get the indexed-dop system, can I install it myself?

A. Yes, and there's a how-to video. On the other hand, if you have us install it, you'll be some days without your machine, but you get, in effect, a free calibration along with it.

Q. ..... And. If I did get the indexed-dop system, can I use my old dops?

A. Yes. You just need to grind an angle on the back-an "eyeballed" 45°--it's not critical and you can miss by a lot.

Q. What does the Keyed Spindle System upgrade consist of?

A. A picture is worth a thousand words -- Click here for the details.

7. PEOPLE AT ULTRA TEC

Q. Is Joe Rubin still actively working?

A. Joe, who still writes the Sometimes Bulletin is - what he calls - "retired", which means that he works, and is here, about half the time. If you don't get Joe, personally, on the telephone...don't worry. There is a very capable team here able to assist with your all your machinery questions.

Q. I have questions about working on a design or particular type of stone -- Should I call Ultra Tec?

A. Much as the people at Ultra Tec love to hear your experiences and help out where possible, there are often better places to get 'application' help. Most of our local representatives are advanced gemcutters and are ready to share their knowledge.

8. ACCESSORIES

Q. Is there any Accessory that I must have?

A. No-but close to a "must-have" accessory is either the Dial Indicator Attachment (Order Code: 1305.7) or the Digital Angle Dial (see questions above) . We've thought about making it a standard item but there are some faceting teachers who do teach without them (and it's easier to handle them as an "add-on" rather than a "take-off).

Q. Doesn't the Dial Indicator Attachment do the same thing as the Down Indicator Light or the Stop Indicator Buzzer ?

A. Well, they are similar but not exactly the same (and so many faceters use both). The Dial Indicator Attachment is for speed, and the Down Indicator Light, or the Stop Indicator Buzzer, are for accuracy. That is, using the Dial Indicator Attachment, the faceter views the movement of the stone through the entire removal process and visually estimates the stopping point on a scale with a resolution of .001 inch, while the Light (or Buzzer) gives no information until the last second, but then is sensitive to a few microns.

9. TECHNIQUES AND MATERIALS

Q. For dopping, Ultra Tec recommends Loctite 404 – is that the “best” dopping material?

A. Quite a few years ago we experimented and came up with Loctite 404 as being the best “super glue” (cyano acrylate) to use. All “super glues” are not the same – Look at the Loctite lineup and you will find many (406, 460, 495 etc) specification-controlled items. What you are getting when you go to the hardware store and buy a generic “super glue” is a non-specification controlled item – likely the bottom of the various barrels, mixed together and so not completely predictable in its performance

We don’t know if using 404 is truly “the best” technique – but it works consistently well for us, and consistent performance is important (we avoid arguments about “better” techniques – they may well be, but, we’ve used Loctite 404 and put that concern aside)

You don’t have to buy it from us. You can find it cheaper elsewhere (we buy a small quantity and mark it up). I recommend getting the small .33 oz. container – it looks tiny but it will do quite a few stones – usually, you only use a drop or less. Put the date on the bottle and throw it out when it is a year old (a very good reason for not getting a big bottle). Keep it in the refrigerator.

After dopping it’s a good idea to wait and allow it to set up completely. You can work with it after 10 minutes or so, but a wait of a few hours is much better (or over-night),

10. SECOND HAND MACHINES

Q. I've seen a 2nd hand Ultra Tec faceting machine for sale - Should I buy it ?

A. While we still feel that the 2nd Best machine on the market is a "used" Ultra Tec, most second hand machines are a distant second. Joe Rubin went into some detail about this very subject in the the article Why you should NOT buy a used faceting machine (pdf)

Click on the image

11. BUYING A MACHINE

Q. Its time for me to buy the World's finest faceting machine - How do I go about buying an Ultra Tec V2 ?

A. Take a look at our list of Sales Representatives - please speak to the nearest person to you. We have a growing team both in the USA and Internationally. If you don't see anyone local, contact us and we'll be pleased to help. All orders are placed with the factory, ensuring that your price is always the same, whoever and wherever you are.

Note: We hope that we've answered most of your questions in this FAQ, regarding our faceting machinery and accessories. If you still have questions, please e-mail us at info@ultratec-facet.com

FAQ -- Updated May 28, 2010